White grubs, the larval stage of beetles like Japanese beetles and European chafers, are one of the most damaging lawn pests in the Capital Region. They feed on grass roots underground, so by the time you notice trouble on the surface, the damage is usually already done. 

Knowing how to spot an infestation early, when to treat it, and how these pests build up over the season can mean the difference between a quick fix and a full lawn rebuild.

Understanding the White Grub Life Cycle

Adult beetles come out in early to midsummer and lay their eggs in the lawn, usually favoring turf that’s well-watered. Those eggs hatch within a few weeks, and the young grubs start feeding on grass roots right through late summer and into fall. Once temperatures drop, they move deeper into the soil to wait out the winter, then come back up to feed again briefly in spring before turning into adult beetles. This happens every year, and each new generation can do more root damage if nothing is done to stop it.

How to Identify Grub Damage: 3 Tips

Confirming a grub problem before treating is what separates a fix that works from one that doesn’t. Here are three reliable ways to check.

1. Check the Turf

Grub damage usually shows up as patches of brown or wilting grass that keep spreading and don’t improve with watering. Since the roots are gone, the grass often feels loose or spongy when you walk on it. In severe cases, you can pull back a section of turf like a rug, as nothing is holding it down.

2. Watch for Wildlife

Skunks, raccoons, and birds eat grubs, and they’ll tear up your lawn to get to them. If you wake up to torn patches of grass, that’s often a sign of grubs underneath, not just wildlife passing through.

3. Do a Square-Foot Check

The most reliable way to know for sure is to take a look beneath your grass. Cut a one-foot square section of turf on three sides, fold it back, and count the grubs in the top two to three inches of soil. Cornell’s Integrated Pest Management Program generally recommends treating once you find four to six grubs per square foot for European chafer, or six to twelve for Japanese and Oriental beetles. 

Well-watered lawns can handle a few more before showing damage. If you’re below these numbers and your lawn otherwise looks healthy, you likely don’t need to treat.

When to Treat an Active Infestation

Timing has a significant effect on treatment outcomes. Here’s how the main options break down:

• June and July: Preventive treatments are typically applied in June and July, before eggs hatch, to target newly hatched larvae while they’re still small and easiest to control.
• Late summer or early fall: We usually apply curative treatments once damage or an above-threshold population has been confirmed in late summer or early fall, targeting larvae that are already feeding and larger.
• Spring treatments: Spring treatments aren’t usually effective, since grubs have overwintered and grown into larger, more insecticide-resistant larvae by that point, and the root damage has already been done.

Repairing Damaged Turf After Treatment

Treatment stops the infestation, but it won’t bring back roots that are already gone. Lawns with minor damage often bounce back on their own with regular watering once the grubs are handled. But areas with heavy root loss won’t recover without help and will need new seed or sod to fill back in. Since aeration helps new seed make better contact with the soil, pairing it with overseeding usually gets better results than overseeding alone, especially where grub feeding has left the ground loose and worn out.

Preventing Future Grub Damage

Routine lawn care won’t stop grubs from laying eggs in your turf, but it does help your lawn tolerate moderate populations without visible damage. Here are a few habits that make the biggest difference:

• Mow at the proper height: Taller grass supports deeper, healthier root systems that hold up better under grub pressure.
• Water consistently: Regular irrigation keeps turf dense and better able to mask a sub-threshold grub population.
• Maintain overall turf density: A thick, healthy lawn tolerates far more grub activity before damage becomes visible than a thin or stressed one.
• Schedule preventive treatment early: For lawns with a history of grub activity, an early summer application, timed before adult beetles lay eggs, is the most consistent way to avoid a repeat infestation the following fall.

Another factor to consider: Grub activity often overlaps with other below-ground pest pressure in the Capital Region, and torn-up turf isn’t always grub damage alone. 

If digging and tunneling patterns persist after grub control, it’s worth reviewing our guide on how to get rid of moles and voles, since both pests are drawn to grub-infested lawns as a food source. For homeowners managing recurring seasonal grub cycles, our guide on why grubs survive the winter covers what happens to a population between now and next spring.

Protecting Your Lawn Long-Term

Groundhogs Lawn Care provides grub identification and treatment services throughout the Capital Region, with both curative and preventive options timed to local beetle activity. If you’re seeing turf damage or increased wildlife activity in your yard, contact our team to schedule an inspection and determine the right course of treatment for your property.

Frequently Asked Questions About Grub Prevention in the Capital Region

How many grubs per square foot is considered a problem?

It depends on the species, but Cornell’s Integrated Pest Management Program generally recommends treating once you find four to six grubs per square foot for European chafer, or six to twelve for Japanese and Oriental beetles. Watered lawns can handle a few more before showing damage.

What is the best time of year to treat grubs?

June and July are best for preventive treatment, before eggs hatch. Late summer through early fall works best for curative treatment, while grubs are feeding and still small enough to control. Spring treatment isn’t recommended, since grubs are bigger and harder to kill by then, and the damage has usually already happened.

Will my lawn recover from grub damage without reseeding?

Lawns with minor root damage often recover on their own with regular watering once the grubs are treated. But if the damage is severe enough that you can pull the sod back like a rug, that area will need new seed or sod to fill back in.

If your lawn has developed raised, winding ridges or small trails of matted-down grass this fall, you’re probably dealing with moles, voles, or both. The two get lumped together constantly, but they’re different animals with different habits, and knowing which one you’re up against changes how you handle it. 

The good news is that most yards don’t need anything drastic. A few targeted, nonviolent steps can send them looking for a friendlier spot, and if that’s not enough, professional help is available without reaching for anything harsh.

Moles vs. Voles: How to Know What’s In Your Yard

Moles are insectivores. They live almost entirely underground and spend their time tunneling in search of grubs, earthworms, and other insects, which means the damage they leave behind is really a side effect of them hunting for food rather than eating your lawn itself. 

Voles are a different story. They’re small rodents, closer relatives to mice than moles, and they feed on grass roots, bulbs, and the stems of plants at ground level. That difference in diet explains the damage each leaves, so it’s worth knowing the signs of each before deciding how to respond.

Signs of Mole Activity in Your Yard

Mole damage has a distinct look once you know what to check for:

• Raised, ridge-like tunnels: Winding trails just under the surface that often shift position after a good rain.
• Volcano-shaped mounds: Cone-shaped piles of soil marking spots where moles have pushed dirt up from deeper tunnels.
• Spongy or soft ground: Areas that feel hollow underfoot where tunnels run close to the surface.
• Damage near moist, grub-rich soil: Activity tends to cluster around garden beds, shaded lawn areas, or spots that stay damp longer after watering.

These signs usually point to moles working the soil in search of food, not damage to the grass itself.

Signs of Vole Activity in Your Yard

Vole damage looks and behaves differently:

• Narrow, worn trails: Visible paths of flattened grass connecting several small entry holes about the size of a golf ball.
• Trails near cover: Most common close to garden beds, mulch, or areas with tall ground cover where voles feel protected from predators.
• Chewed bark or stems: Gnaw marks near the base of young trees and shrubs close to the soil line.
• Gradual, then sudden, damage: Trails tend to build slowly before becoming obvious all at once.

Because voles rely on cover to stay hidden, thinning out dense vegetation near your lawn’s edges often reduces the trails you’re seeing within a season.

3 DIY Ways to Deter Moles and Voles

Once you know which animal you’re dealing with, a few DIY methods can make your yard less appealing without resorting to anything lethal.

1. Castor Oil Repellents

Castor oil is one of the most common natural deterrents for moles, working by upsetting their digestive system rather than harming them outright. Mixing it with a bit of dish soap and water, then applying it across affected areas, is usually enough to send moles looking elsewhere. Reapplication after rain is typically needed since the repellent washes out over time.

2. Reducing Their Food Source

Moles stick around where there’s a steady supply of grubs to eat, so a lawn with a heavy grub population is naturally more attractive to them. Cutting down on grubs through professional insect control removes much of the incentive for moles to stay, and it addresses a problem that can damage turf on its own (our post on how grubs survive the winter covers how those populations build up in the first place).

3. Habitat Modification and Humane Trapping

Voles rely on cover to avoid predators, so pulling mulch back from foundations, mowing shorter near garden beds, and clearing brush piles all make a yard less hospitable. Humane live traps are another option for persistent activity, letting you relocate voles rather than eliminate them, though it’s worth checking local regulations first.

When DIY Isn’t Enough

DIY methods work well for light activity, but moles and voles can build tunnel systems faster than expected, and repellents only last until they wash away. If mounds and trails keep reappearing, the underlying issue is usually a food source or habitat condition supporting more activity than one or two applications can handle.

That’s where addressing the lawn as a whole, rather than one mole hill at a time, tends to pay off. Pairing grub control with core aeration and overseeding helps repair the turf moles and voles leave behind, giving grass roots room to recover. According to Cornell Cooperative Extension, a single mole can dig extensive tunnel networks in a short period, which is part of why early action matters.

Groundhogs Lawn Care helps Capital Region homeowners get ahead of mole and vole activity before it spreads across the whole yard. If DIY methods haven’t held up or you’d rather skip straight to a plan built around your lawn’s specific grub and turf conditions, contact us to schedule an evaluation.

Frequently Asked Questions About Moles and Voles

What Time of Day Are Moles and Voles Most Active?

Moles are most active in the early morning and evening hours, particularly after rain when soil is soft and easier to tunnel through. Voles tend to be active around the clock but are often most noticeable at dawn and dusk, when they’re more likely to be seen moving along their surface trails.

Will Dish Soap Get Rid of Moles?

Dish soap alone typically isn’t a reliable long-term solution, but it’s commonly mixed with castor oil and water as part of a homemade repellent spray. The combination is thought to irritate moles enough to send them elsewhere, though results vary and reapplication after rain is usually needed.

What Is the Fastest Way to Get Rid of Moles in Your Yard?

There’s no truly instant fix, since moles respond to changes in food supply and soil conditions rather than one-time treatments. The quickest results usually come from combining a repellent like castor oil with grub control, since removing their food source discourages new tunneling while the repellent addresses what’s already there.

By late fall, most homeowners in upstate New York are wrapping up their final mow and preparing their lawn for winter. But while your grass goes dormant, one common pest is preparing to wait out the cold… grubs.

These small beetle larvae may not be active on the surface this time of year, but they’re still alive underground, ready to start feeding again once the soil warms in spring.

Knowing how grubs survive winter and what steps to take now can help you avoid patchy, damaged turf when the snow melts.

Do Lawn Grubs Survive the Winter?

Yes. Lawn grubs survive winter by digging deeper into the soil where temperatures stay above freezing. Most burrow 4 to 6 inches below the surface once the top layer cools below 50 degrees. In this layer, they enter a semi-dormant state. They don’t die off, they simply stop feeding and conserve energy until warmer weather returns.

When soil temperatures rise again in early spring, grubs move back toward the surface and begin eating grass roots. That feeding period often goes unnoticed until the grass fails to green up, leaving large brown or thin patches across the yard.

At What Temperature Do Grubs Stop Feeding?

Grubs typically stop feeding once soil temperatures drop below 50 degrees. As the weather cools in late October and November, their activity slows and eventually pauses entirely for winter. However, they’re not gone – they’re simply inactive until conditions improve.

Since grubs spend the winter safely underground, fall is your last chance to act before they settle in. Treatments applied too late may not reach them, which is why early fall is ideal for control. By late November, your best approach is planning ahead for preventive applications in spring before they start feeding again.

How Long Do Grubs Live in Your Lawn?

Most grub species in New York have a one-year life cycle, but a few can survive longer depending on soil temperature and moisture. Here’s a typical timeline:

• Late Fall and Winter: Grubs move deeper underground to avoid freezing.
• Spring: They rise toward the surface and feed on grass roots as the soil warms.
• Summer: They transform into beetles (often Japanese beetles or June beetles).
• Late Summer: Adult beetles lay new eggs in your lawn.
• Early Fall: Those eggs hatch, and the new grubs begin feeding until temperatures drop again.

Without professional intervention, this cycle repeats every year, each generation causing more root loss and visible damage over time.

Will Grass Damaged by Grubs Come Back?

That depends on how severe the root damage is. Grass with minor damage may recover naturally in spring with proper watering and fertilization once grubs are gone. But if roots are destroyed in large areas, the turf won’t regrow on its own.

You can test for damage by pulling up a section of turf. If it lifts easily like a carpet, the roots are gone. In those cases, reseeding or sodding will be needed after treatment. If you’re unsure how to restore your lawn, Groundhogs Lawn Care can inspect your turf and build a recovery plan that fits your property’s condition and timing.

Why You Should Think Ahead

Even though grub activity has stopped for the season, now is the right time to plan next year’s prevention. Once the ground freezes, treatments are ineffective – but scheduling early spring service ensures grubs are stopped before they feed again.

Homeowners can also take a few steps through winter to support recovery and prevention:

1. Leave your grass a little taller for its final mow. This protects the roots and insulates the soil where grubs overwinter.
2. Avoid excessive soil compaction. Heavy foot traffic or snow piles can make spring recovery harder.
3. Schedule preventive grub control early. Treatments applied in late spring target new larvae before they cause root damage.

Groundhogs Lawn Care provides seasonal lawn fertilization and pest control services throughout the Capital Region, helping homeowners prepare now so they’re not dealing with patchy turf later.

When to Call a Professional

If you’ve seen beetles in summer or noticed animals digging up your yard this fall, chances are grubs are present. A technician can confirm their activity and recommend a prevention plan before next year’s hatch. Addressing the problem early saves money, prevents frustration, and protects the health of your lawn long-term.

Get Ahead of Next Spring’s Grub Damage

Call (518) 914-4120 or visit GoGroundhogs.com to schedule a winter inspection or plan early grub control for your lawn.

A lush, green lawn is a homeowner’s pride and joy — a place where families gather, children play, and friends relax. However, maintaining a beautiful lawn involves more than regular mowing and watering. A crucial aspect of lawn care is protecting it from pests. At The Lawn Care Company, we recognize the nuisance and potential harm caused by spiders, ticks, fleas, and mosquitoes. With so many confusing and often conflicting options available for infestations of these pests, it can be a challenge to figure out how to treat your yard for fleas, ticks, mosquitos, and spiders. In this blog post, we’ll look at the most effective DIY strategies for managing these pests and creating a pest-free oasis for you and your loved ones.

DIY Tips for Controlling Ticks

Ticks are not just annoying but also dangerous, as they are potential carriers of diseases such as Lyme disease. Implementing organic tick control within your property can significantly reduce their presence and safeguard your family’s health. A proactive approach involves understanding tick behavior and habitats and using this knowledge to disrupt their life cycle. Here are some effective DIY strategies for managing ticks:

• Landscaping: Keep your grass mowed and landscape well-trimmed. Ticks thrive in tall grasses and overgrown areas, so maintaining a clean yard can reduce tick habitats significantly.
• Tick Barriers: Create physical barriers such as wood-chip or gravel borders between your lawn and wooded areas. These barriers can discourage ticks from crossing into recreational areas.
• Natural Repellents: Utilize essential oils and plants that naturally repel ticks. For example, planting lavender, rosemary, and marigolds around the perimeter of your yard can help keep ticks away.
• Environmental Management: Regularly remove leaf litter, brush, and weeds at the edge of the lawn to reduce the tick population in your garden.
• Tick Checks: After spending time outdoors, conduct thorough tick checks on yourself, your family, and your pets to ensure early detection and removal.

DIY Tips for Mosquito Management

Mosquitoes are more than a simple nuisance; they are carriers of severe diseases such as West Nile and Zika viruses, making them one of the most dangerous garden pests. Here’s how you can implement organic controls to keep mosquitoes at bay and enjoy your outdoor spaces safely:

• Eliminate Standing Water: Mosquitoes breed in standing water. Regularly check and drain places like birdbaths, clogged gutters, and plant saucers to prevent mosquito infestation.
• Plant-Based Repellents: Grow plants that naturally repel mosquitoes, such as citronella, lavender, and lemon balm, in and around your home and vegetable gardens.
• Natural Oils and Sprays: Use sprays made from essential oils like eucalyptus or tea tree oil in a spray bottle to treat areas where mosquitoes are frequent.
• Proper Ventilation: Ensure window frames are fitted with mesh screens to prevent mosquitoes from entering your home.
• Use Protective Clothing: When spending time outdoors during peak mosquito activity times, wear long sleeves and pants and apply an EPA-approved mosquito repellent.

DIY Tips for Flea Prevention

Fleas are not only a significant irritant to pets but also to humans and can rapidly infest both your lawn and home. Fleas often hitch a ride on pets but can proliferate in your yard and move indoors. Here’s how to implement effective DIY strategies for flea prevention:

• Frequent Pet Care: Regularly bathe and groom your pets and give them flea treatment products recommended by veterinarians. Ensure all pet bedding is washed frequently in hot water to kill any flea eggs.
• Maintain Your Lawn: Keep your lawn short and expose soil to sunlight by trimming grass regularly. Fleas dislike sunlight and are less likely to survive in well-trimmed lawns.
• Use Diatomaceous Earth: Spread food-grade diatomaceous earth around your yard. This non-toxic powder can dehydrate and kill fleas naturally.
• Regular Cleaning: Vacuum indoor areas and wash floors with a mild detergent to eliminate any fleas or insect larvae from entering your home.
• Consider Professional Treatment: If flea infestations persist, consult a professional pest control service for effective treatment options.

DIY Tips for Spider Control

While most spiders are harmless and act as beneficial insects by eating other pests, certain species can pose risks to humans and pets. Managing spider populations around your home is essential to ensure they don’t become unwanted pests:

• Regular Cleaning: Remove webs, dust, and debris from corners, under furniture, and around window frames to discourage spiders from settling. Remove clutter, woodpiles, and other potential hiding spots for spiders near your lawn.
• Reduce Outdoor Lighting: Minimize outdoor lights that attract insects, which in turn attract spiders. Use yellow sodium vapor lights, which are less appealing to the insects that spiders feed on.
• Natural Deterrents: Spiders dislike the scent of essential oils such as peppermint and citrus. Apply these oils at entry points to deter spiders.
• Seal Cracks: Inspect and seal any cracks or gaps in the foundation and around windows and doors to prevent spiders from entering your home.

When DIY Pest Control Isn’t Enough

Implementing these DIY pest control strategies can significantly reduce pest populations in your home and garden. However, for severe pest infestations or to maintain a year-round pest-free lawn, sometimes professional exterminators may be necessary to effectively manage and eliminate pests. If DIY methods are not sufficient, contact The Lawn Care Company for professional pest control services to ensure your lawn stays healthy and enjoyable without the hassle of persistent pests.

Our Integrated Pest Management Solutions

At The Lawn Care Company, we specialize in integrated pest management solutions that seamlessly blend effective DIY tips with professional interventions, ensuring that your lawn remains healthy and pest-free throughout the year. Our holistic approach not only addresses the lifecycle of pests like fleas and mosquitoes but also tackles common concerns, such as how to get rid of fleas and ticks in yard areas. We utilize targeted treatments that are specifically designed to combat these pests while being safe for both your family and the environment.

Understanding the challenges posed by fleas and mosquitoes, we focus on eliminating these pests from their breeding grounds and preventing their return. For homeowners wondering how to treat their yards for fleas and ticks effectively, our strategies include habitat modification, the use of natural repellents, and the application of environmentally friendly pesticides as part of a broader mosquito and tick treatment for yards. By managing the environment and using science-based approaches, we help reduce the populations of fleas and mosquitoes, ensuring your outdoor spaces are comfortable and safe for year-round enjoyment.

Eco-Friendly Pest Control Options

In the quest for a healthier environment and safer outdoor spaces, eco-friendly pest control solutions are becoming increasingly essential. At The Lawn Care Company, we specialize in organic pest control, employing methods that respect the balance of nature while effectively reducing pest populations. Our approach includes the use of natural predators, botanical repellents, and carefully selected organic products that target only pests without harming beneficial insects or the surrounding ecosystem. This integrated strategy ensures your lawn remains a vibrant, pest-free zone without the reliance on harsh chemicals, providing peace of mind and a sustainable solution for managing spiders, fleas, ticks, and mosquitoes.

Contact Us for Professional Lawn Pest Control Services in Queensbury, NY, and Nearby Areas

If you’re struggling with persistent pests and need more robust solutions, contact The Lawn Care Company. Our experts specialize in organic pest control treatments that are effective and environmentally friendly. We serve areas from Albany, NY, to Lake George, NY, and are just a call away from helping you maintain a pest-free lawn. Call us today for professional help and reclaim the comfort and beauty of your outdoor spaces.